Monday, Nov. 1 - Sea of Galilee, Mt. Bental, Caesarea Philippi, Capernaum, Mount of Beatitudes

We pilgrims have agreed on an observation. Each day is better than the last. We don't understand it but we finish a day and think "well, the rest of the trip will be anticlimatic. There's no way tomorrow can compare to today."  Today proves it once again. In fact, more some of us, our sunset boatride across the Sea of Galilee was the highlight of our pilgrimage - so far. We stopped the boat in the middle of the Sea (remember, it's actually a lake, not a sea) and read the scripture of Jesus calming the sea in the middle of a storm.

Realizing that Jesus and the disciples would have seen the same mountains and general terrain we were looking at and watching the orange sunset over the mountains just took my breath away. I got choked up (yeah, yeah, I know some of you are thinking "but you ALWAYS get choked up...") And you'd be right. But, friends, when you are there. When you know this is God's holy place. When you remember that God didn't send Jesus Christ to Miami or Buenos Aires or Toronto...but to Israel. To Jerusalem. To the Sea of Galilee. To Capernaum. It's special in a way that words can't express.

The day began with a lesson from Lazarus, our Israeli Christian tour guide. He asked why Jesus chose Capernaum on the Sea of Galilee to be his home base. Why he chose to go from village to village in this area for His ministry. The answer was a practical one. He said "Jesus had to communicate without the Internet and email. The best way to spread His message quickly was to center it on a trade route. Guess what? This area, especially Capernaum and Tiberias were the center of a north-south trade route. Travelers and merchants were the best and fastest way to spread information.

We first visited the Church of Peter Primacy where Jesus cooked fish for the disciples following His resurrection. We held a communion service on the grounds of this beautiful place. It's where Jesus told the disciples to cast their nets on the OTHER side of the boat when they couldn't catch any fish. It's where He commanded them earlier to "Follow me."

We then went to the banks of the Jordan River where I scooped up two bottles of water to use in baptisms back home.

On to Mt. Bental which is a defunct volcano. It played a key role in the 1967 war between Israel and Syria. Syria approached Israel in a surprise attack in this area. They planned on a 48-hour blitzkrieg. The problem was, they conquered the area (known as the Golan Heights) in 24 hours. They hadn't planned on such a quick conquest so they had no military plans for the second 24-hour period. This gave Israel time to amass a small number of tanks and to prepare a defense. From the top of Mount Bental, you can see the fortifications and bunkers. Looking down you see into what used to be Syria. Syria amassed 450 tanks. Israel could only muster 70 - with the help of the U.S. The two opposing armies staged the biggest tank battle to that date since the famous tank battle of Stalingrad.
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They call the area "The Valley of Tears" because so many civilians and soldiers were killed there. The two armies maneuvered and fired, maneuvered and fired. Eventually, the Israelis won and won back control of the Golan Heights, which they control to this day.

Interesting story. The Israeli version of our CIA - the Mossad - had planted an agent high up in the Syrian government. He had eucalyptus trees planted around Syrian military facilities - artillery batteries and bases. This gave the Israeli Air Force and artillery batteries exact coordinates for shelling and bombing. "Just aim for the eucalyptus trees."

But back to the Bible. Next was Caesarea Philippi where Jesus did a signficant amount of teaching. It's where he met with the disciples in a cave (I have pictures) and asked them "Who do the people say I am?" In other words: "are people getting it?" And after giving him some feedback, Peter said "You are the Christ. The Son of the living God." The area around Caesarea Philippi looks very much like the bluffs and streams around Leakey (Laity Lodge) and Kerrville. Very similar. We saw the spring which is the headwaters of the River Jordan. And, it's at the base of Mount Hermon which is today a ski area.

It's where I saw more of the ubiqitous t-shirts that say "America - don't worry. Israel has your back." I love it.

We saw an area where two ridges slope down to each other, creating what appears to be a natural amphitheatre. Could Jesus have used such a grassy, sloping area to teach a multitude of people?

In fact, we visited the Mount of Beatitudes where Jesus did teach the crowds. Beautiful area overlooking the Sea of Galilee.

Then on to Capernaum where Jesus based much of His ministry. In fact, there's a sign that says "Capernaum: the home of Jesus." They're proud of their hometown boy. In fract, it's the hometown, too, of James and John, the Sons of Thunder (Zebedee). We visited the remains of the house where Peter's mother-in-law lived and where we know for a fact Jesus spent time. It's also the home of the Centurion, the first Gentile convert to Christianity. So, it's famous for a lot of aspects of Jesus' life but the one thing that caught our attention was the Synagogue. It's a Fourth Century synagogue but it's built exactly over the site of the synagogue where Jesus taught.

Capernaum isn't mentioned in the Old Testament but was certainly a thriving city in Jesus' time. In 749, an earthquake destroyed the city.

This area is also the site of several dead volcanoes. In fact, the best grape-growing region in Israel is in the basin of the blown-out volcanoes.

I close with an observation or two about our group of pilgrims: 11 from Austin, 33 from Houston, and one from Dallas - Dr. Saleem Ateek who put the trip together and handled all the logistics. I cannot imagine a more compatible group. I have experienced groups this size which have been thrown together for an extended period of time: my Air Force basic training flight. My Officer Candidate School class. But I have never been around a happier, more caring, and helpful group before. They threw a birthday party for me in Bethlehem at a wonderful restaurant. I told them if I couldn't be around my own family (wife, children, grandchildren and Trinity family, I couldn't imagine being with a better group of friends.

Of course we're happy and tireless because of where we are. The Lord wanted each  one of us here in His holy land for a reason. We don't know yet what that reason is but we know it's special. We've gained insight and knowledge we didn't have before. We've learned that the people of the Bible were a rugged and sturdy people. They walked for days to get to the next village. From Nazareth (Jesus' home) to Jerusalem is about a four-day walk. Jesus did it all the time. The countryside is hilly, even mountainous in parts. It's hard for our Mercedes bus to get up and down the mountains. Imagine how it was for men and women wearing sandles walking where there aren't hike-and-bike trails.

We've been moved to be in the same places where the famous events of the Bible took place. We've been in tears as we sang "Here I am, Lord" on the shores where Jesus said "Follow me." It's been a special week so far and we have more to come.

Early tomorrow morning we leave Israel and move to Jordan. It's a long day but with several important stops. Tomorrow evening (Tuesday) we arrive in Petra and will spend Wednesday looking through this incredible city carved out of stone. If you aren't familiar with Petra, Google it. I'll celebrate communion and preach there. It's where some think Jesus was referring when, warning us of what to do in the end times, He said "women of Jerusalem, flee to the mountains to avoid the wrath." Petra is in the Jordanian mountains east of Jerusalem and was considered a safe place.

I'm not sure when my next post will be. God's blessings to you for following our pilgrimage.

Getting water for baptisms from the River Jordan

Looking down from the military fortifications on top of Mt. Bental. Below, in the Golan Heights more than 450 Syrian tanks were defeated by 70 Israeli tanks during the 1967 War. In the background is Mt. Hermon.

The cave at Caesarea Philippi where Jesus met with His disciples and asked "Who do the people say I am?" Peter famously answered "You are the Christ. The Son of the Living God."

 A view toward the Sea of Galilee from the beautiful Mt. of Beatitudes.

This is the Fourth Century synagogue in Capernaum, built over the synagogue where Jesus taught.

Our boat mast on our sunset cruise over the Sea of Galilee. After we boarded the ship, the crew played The Star Spangled Banner. We stood with our hands/hats over our hearts and sang together. They raised Old Glory so it flew side-by-side with the Israeli flag. Note the Cross joining the U.S. and Israel. Fitting, isn't it?

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Sunset on the Sea of Galilee on Monday, November 1, 2010, All Saints Day.